I my previous posts, I wrote about collecting rain water in a tank, and using that to flush the toilet in the house. But what about when it when its not raining? Would it be possible to extract water from the ground? I live in an area where the water table is quite shallow, so how hard could it be?
I started with 3m of 110mm pipe, and cut some small ‘teeth’ into the edge of one end. I also drilled out lots of small holes over about half a meter of the same end. Choosing a spot near the tank, I dug a shallow hole with a spade to get started, and jammed the 110mm pipe into the sand.
At first it was easy to twist and push deeper into the sand. When it got stiffer, I lowered a hosepipe down the inside the pipe. That loosened things up a bit, and soon filled up the pipe, pushing out muddy and sandy water.
It got stiffer and stiffer the deeper it went. It was easy to get it stuck, and I found out that hitting it down with rubber hammer was a sure way to jam it. I drilled a hole in the top of the 110mm pipe, and put a section of 12mm round bar through it, padded with some irrigation pipe. That made a handle that allowed the pipe to be twisted with a lot of force.
I found water at only 2m deep. That doesn’t mean I could pump water up from there, because the water takes time to seep through the sand it is in, and pumping water out creates a ‘dimple’ in the water table, as shown here.
Once through the first layer of sand, I hit some darker soil, and then a layer of white clay. When it wouldn’t go deeper, I disconnected the backwash pipe of the pool pump, and connected it to a 90 degree bend, and a long section of 40mm PVC pipe. Turning on the pool pump briefly blasted the inside of the 110m pipe clear, and allowed it to be pushed deeper..
When most of the 2m pipe was in the ground I let the hole drain and settle for a day, and then carefully twisted and lifted the 110mm pipe.
When it b
ecame impossible to go deeper, I cut some 20mm re-bar to have a point at one end, and lower this into the pipe. By lifting it and letting it drop, it was possible to smash through some hard layers. The 50mm pipe with a hose pipe pushing water down it washed out the debris after doing that.
When the 3m pipe was level with the ground, I prepared a sieve, using some 50mm thick walled pipe, a plug, and a 16mm to 40mm adaptor. The slits were cut with a hacksaw, and the holes drilled out to 3mm.
After flushing out a bit more soil from below the base of the 3m pipe, I poured in same small drainage stones, about 5mm size, lowered the sieve attached to a length of 15mm irrigation pipe until the tip was about 3.5m below ground, and poured in more stone. I hoped the stone would surround the sieve, and form a permeable collection area. When the sieve was definitely covered by stone, I added some coarse sand, and when the hole was filled to about 2.5m, a layer of clay as an air barrier. The rest was filled with a mixture of clay and sand.

I repeated the process, with some variation, to make two more wellpoint holes. I used a 50mm PVC pipe to make the hole, which was much faster than using the 110mm pipe. To flush it out, a 40mm PVC pipe fitted down the 50mm pipe, and was very effective in flushing out sand and soil. It was also useful putting a 45 degree T-piece on the top of the 40mm pipe, with a short section to allow the sandy and muddy water to be directed away from the hole (the hose pipe would go into the top, as pictured). The 20mm re-bar came in handy again when I got to hard layers.

These two holes where shallower, and one of the the collection pipes ended up at about 2.5m, and the other at about 3.6m down. I went right down to 5.4m, by first using a 3m length of 50mm pipe, and when it was almost fully underground, allowing it to drain and dry overnight, then carefully twisting and lifting it out. I was surprised that the hole did not collapse when doing that.
From the experience of sinking the holes, I found that below a thin layer of top soil, there was about 2m of soft sand, followed by a thin later of hard clay, followed by about a meter of more soft sand. At around 3.5m down I hit a very hard chalky layer, which continued to about 5m below ground level. At 5m there seemed to a hard yellowish layer, and the water I flushed it with came out creamy yellowish, and slightly acidic, in that it stung a small cut I had on my hand. At about 5.5m below ground, there was a totally solid layer that the 20mm rebar just bounced off without penetrating at all. Perhaps a geologist reading this can try and guess what all those layers were?
The sieve arrangement used above did not fit inside the 50mm pipe, so instead I bought a small stainless steel sieve. An adaptor screwed into that, and into a length of irrigation pipe. For one hole I used 12mm pipe, and 15mm for the other. It seemed that the 12mm pipe would hold a lower volume of water, and so be less weight for the pump to lift. Also, at the low flow rates I expected, a thicker pipe would not have any advantage. It would be interesting to test this somehow, but for now its just conjecture.
Next step was to somehow connect these three pipes from the wellpoints to the pump. How hard could it be?


Hi Peter
Just a few questions, where about in Cape town did you do this, and how do I know when I reach the water, where did you buy the sieve
I am in the Southern suburbs, on sandy soil, about 25m above sea level. I bought the sieve from Simphiwe’s Irrigation in Iman Haron Rd. I have had better results with the DIY sieve, made from half a metre of 50mm pipe with slits and holes, as shown in the blog. The sieve has got blocked now.
I just tried unblocking the sieve by making a rig to connect to a compressor. I got it up to 8 bar repeatedly (at about 8.5 bar it went bang) and it is STILL blocked! I can’t imagine what it looks like down there, and what is keeping it blocked despite that pressure.
Does your pipe lie loose in the water or covered with sand?
Hi Peter,
I am also working on a DIY well point. I have so far used an Auger (bought from John’s Tin Shed) down to a depth of 3m and hope to get down to a depth of 6m. Can I ask where did you get the sieve from? It’s interesting the different colours of clay that come up – some yellowish some reddish. The clay feels moist at 3m but no water as yet. Fingers crossed the next 3m have more luck. Is the sieve in direct contact with the clay at the bottom of your well point or did you put PVC pipe down as well.
Chris
Hello Chris. Good on you! I got the sieve from Simphiwe’s irrigation in Lansdowne Road (Iman Haroon Road), near the police station. For one hole I use a ‘sieve’ I made myself from a half a metre of 40mm pipe with slits cut into it. There are pictures in the blog posts. One hole with a sieve (the small metal sieve) is in direct contact with the soil, but it has got blocked and I haven’t managed to unblock it so far. There is a PVC pipe, but the sieve is beyond the end of it. I have some different ideas for the next hole – subscribe to watch this space!
Hi Chris, interested to hear if you managed to get water,, i live in blommendal and there is a lot of clay, do you think the hand auger will be able to go through.
Kind Regards Peter
(theclearys@telkomsa.net)
Where can I get a hand auger for drilling fence posts. I am in North west province. Kimberley and Vryburg are close…can anyone help..?
I am staying the Belhar, Extention 23, (Pentech), would like to install a Well Point on my property
You, and half of Cape Town! I am afraid I don’t do this as a business, I just share what I have done in the hope it may be useful to others. Maybe someone else who reads this can help you?
Do you have a well point yet ?
I will gladly assist…. jonocspv@gmail.com
Hi Peter. How did you know when you reached water. We water jetted down 8m with 40mm. Then put 20mm irrigation pipe down with slits and couldnt get any water out. Thx
Hi Trevor. I checked every half a metre or so, until I could feel/hear water, so I knew where the water table was. I also put some Styrofoam on the end of a long dowel (two tied together actually) and then I could pump water out and see how quickly it recharged. One trick (when you have reached water), is to fill up the pipe, and watch how quickly it drains away. If you are in the right place, it will drain quickly. Its possible you have gone past the porous layer, and are now in impermeable clay, so the water can’t flow to the end of you 40mm pipe.
After being stood up by a local well point installer guy this past weekend, I also decided that I’d be better off drilling my own well point. The current state of affairs however means that it’s unlikely that I’ll be able to blast a well point with municipal water and it would take too long to accumulate the amount of grey water required to reach a decent depth, so I’m going to try and drill one by hand using a well point drilling kit I found for sale on Gumtree. Their standard kit goes down to 6.5m, but they sell extensions as well as tell you how to make your own which I thought was pretty cool. Neighbours on both sides are still able to get plenty of water from their well points, so here’s to hoping that I can too! 🙂 The well screen is crap to manufacture though, and store bought ones are so damn expensive. I’m hoping to rig my dremel up somehow to make the cutting of slits into a 50mm PVC pipe less painful.
Let me know if you need help ? Bisconstruct on FB or message me on 0722364719
UPDATE: Got my drill and found water at 2.5m after about at hour’s drilling. Went down another 1.5m to 4m in total with plenty of water. Dropping my wellscreen in there this week and connecting all the pipes and stuff. Saved myself a bunch of cash and learned a lekker trade in the process 🙂
Interesting! Well done. How do you know there was of water at certain depths? I.e. it could all have been coming from 2.5m or so, and draining down into the hole, how ever far you went.
The drill I use does not use any water, so as I remove sand from the hole, I can see it change texture and moisture levels. It’s like taking repeated core samples at varying depths which makes fine-tuning the depth of the wellscreen a breeze.
That’s very useful! Would love to see a photo of that drill!
Hi Martin, did you buy or rent the drill you used?
Hi martin can you give me your email address and or cell nr.
Need some more info where to buy or rentin equimemt for a 10m DIY well.
Wnd where to buy the pipes needed after the well is drilled
I got mine from Burrowman Augers. They don’t rent though, as far as I know, but buying one is not that expensive.
Hi Martin. Do you still have the wellpoint auger kit?
Hi guys I Oslo made my own drill kit by welding steel grinder blades at the end and extending square tubing with screws to 9more metres but I found water at only 3metres down
Do you still have the kit.
Hi Peter, Found your post very interesting and think I’m going to give it a try. My question is how did you select your spots for your well points or know that you would find water in those spots.
Thanks Shaun
I just chose convenient spots near the pump. Unless you have access to some ground penetrating radar, just take pot luck. If you hit different layers, you could try a few spots and compare. Where I am its pretty sandy, so the the water table is pretty flat. Of course there could be underground streams, which are good places. If you hit coarse sand and/or small smoothed pebbles, that’s a sign there is a flow of water.
See how it’s done in India! There are about 4 videos, very informative and doable.
https://youtu.be/duv6CVWNNLs
Hi there. .I need some info pls.I have drilled a 8 m hole an managed to suck some water but it did not last long.I feel that I’m doing something wrong with the motor or must I fill the hole to create some kind of seal when I try and suck water from the hole
Sealing it means that there is more suction to pull water out of the sand at the bottom, so that could help. Do you have a sieve or something at the bottom? And what do you mean it didn’t last long? Did it start to such air? Another thing that can help is to put gravel and sand in the bottom of the hole to surround the sieve. Finally, if the bottom of the hole is in coarse sand that is best. If its in clay the recharge rate will be very slow. Hope that helps!
I have an existing wellpoint. It was built using concrete rings that goes down about 8 meters. At the moment there is.a lot of clay at the bottom of this Pitt and Very little water. Can I use your method to dig in an existing Pitt?
Hi there. I don’t see why not, although 8m down is already very deep! It maybe dangerous to climb down to the bottom, and working from the top would mean you need very long digging pipes/auger. Also, once you go more than about 9m you cannot use a wellpoint pump on the surface any more. You might have gone past the water bearing layer. Do any close by neighbours have a well point? Maybe the water table is too low… where about are you?
Hi Peter,
Thank you for sharing. I too have decided to DIY a well point as I couldn’t come to terms with the exorbitant prices for a well point. I’ve then decided to get an Auger bit, with a whole lot of scrap metal extensions laying around which could give me a depth of 6m.
I managed to get to 2m fairly quickly(45minutes) with minimal effort. Went through some normal soil, then I hit a clay colour soil. Which on a photo looks like clay, but when you handle it, its very wet soil. That was around 2m. The next night I went a bit further and I got to dark soil, which looked like mud when I brought it up. At 2.5m when I drop my Auger in the hole you can actually hear it landing in water, and the pressure is stronger when trying to pull the Auger back out. I pushed my measuring tape down there and it was wet until 250mm. This is all at 2.5m. I’ve got my well casing in at 2m. I’ll be dropping a further 1.5m. I’m planning to go 4m, and if there’s a good yield, I will be drilling another hole of 4m.
Do you suggest I go further? As I’ve read on other forums people successfully having well points for years, at around 3m.
Thank you,
Maiks
Difficult for me to say… In my experience here once I hit clay (white clay) at around 3m, its just white clay from there down, at least to about 6m.
Your water table height sounds very similar to mine. What are you pulling up now from the bottom? \
Remember that once you start pumping the level will drop around the intake, so 250mm is very little to work with if you want a good flow.
Hi Peter and everyone,
I’ve built myself a small drilling rig with a 3m high tower. I’m using a little two-stroke power auger which I bought from Adendorfs and a 12v winch (also from Adendorfs). I went down 2.5m in about 5 minutes (including the pull-ups and emptying of the auger). All sand, hit the watertable at 2.5m and then the difficult part started (i’ll discuss that in a seperate post if anyone is interested in the progress so far) All in all the rig cost me less than R 5000. Why a drilling rig? Wel I didn’t want to use water to drill with so the obvious choice was then an auger, but my age (68) and with back problems to pull up a loaded 100mm (or bigger) auger for 8, 10 or more meters is difficult, so I built drilling machine. (Peter I can forward you photographs of it, just to show it is not “hard” to built it – in line with you Web site’s title – if you’re interested)
I got my first auger bit (120mm) with the auger machine but reduced it to 100mm (with a baby grinder) then second auger bit from Burrowman (Paul Hanssen in Durban – he send it by post – the best place to get your auger, and plenty of advice) also a 100mm with the auger flights smaller than the Adendorfs one, which makes it perfect for sandy conditions.
Why 100mm? Because the 100mm auger makes a perfect hole for a 110mm pvc pipe (“toilet”-pipes) Why a 110mm pvc pipe? When the sieves on wellpoints gets blocked one basically must drill a new hole and leave the pipe of the old one in the ground due to the fact that there is no sleeve for the wellpoint suction pipe. If you drill a hole for a 110mm pvc pipe (now your sleeve) you have enough room for the suction pipe. All that is the needed is a small sieve (like the stainless steel one in Peter’s photo) below the foot-valve on the suction pipe. When something went wrong its easy to pull-up the suction pipe.
But what about a sieve on the 110mm pvc pipe. First you cut with your hack saw or baby grinder with a diamond stone cutting blade horizontal slits in the pipe, first on the one half and then on the other half of the pipe leave an uncut space of about 20mm in between the 2 halves for the length of about 2.5 – 3m. Then you either spiral wrap this white polyester material (which they use to seal roofs – but make sure you get the more coarse one – it has little white strings every 25mm apart, woven in the material) around the pipe and fix it to the pipe with pvc glue on the 20mm uncut pace between the 2 halves – or make a sock with this material and pull it over from the bottom of the 110mm sleeve pipe. Just remember a sleeve pipe MUST always be closed at the bottom, use a 110mm pvc stopper.
Cassie your idea re 3m rig really interesting as I am in process of well point installation. Unfortunately my property is in somerset West, known deep clay layer.
I have dug a 2m deep pilot, clay fairly impermeable but looks ideally suited to auger drilling
Any chance that I can pay you a visit to see your very interesting operation…I am also in your category…65..yesterday…so any mini power aid would be of massive assistance
Hi Cassie. How far did you end up going down?
Cassie, I am also in same age bracket also busy with pilot hole etc, really interested in your setup, any chance thaI could visit your installation?,
Regards
James
Hi All
I water jetted 2 well points this past weekend about 3-4 m apart and both 5,5m deep. I can get into detail of how I did it but thinking most people here knows the process. I proceeded inserting the 25mm suction pipes with slits on the sides all the way down and filled the holes with sand ( as instructed by someone who knows, apparently) connected the two wells to my pump and primed it for what felt forever but eventually got some water running.
Herewith my problem/s the water running is little about 5 secs to fill half a glass. My concern is that I might have over shot as I got fine sand first then coarse sand the red/orange clay (-+2m in) then fine sand again coarse sand and after that a black clay/sediment (+- 4m which was hard to get through but did to find fine sand below it followed by something very hard and coarse something that felt like gravel? not sure what it was but the two holes worked exactly the same.
I used no sleeve or anything else.
I’m in the Edgemead area anyone else have water and how deep is it about 4m perhaps or did they go deeper?
Does any body have any ideas on this.
Regards Nick